The specifications of Cosmos and Ecocert have tightened their criteria between 2023 and 2024, excluding ingredients that were previously tolerated under the “natural origin” label. Certain film-forming polymers and petrochemical solvents no longer pass the filter. This tightening modifies the actual composition of certified products and, by extension, the way to build a coherent organic beauty routine.
Ingredient Traceability and New Cosmos/Ecocert Criteria
The Cosmos Standard AISBL framework now incorporates the environmental footprint of packaging into its evaluation criteria. A product can showcase impeccable plant-based actives and lose its certification due to a non-recyclable composite plastic bottle. We observe that this dual requirement (formula and packaging) pushes formulators to rethink their galenic bases.
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Traceability is no longer limited to the geographical origin of the ingredient. Certification bodies now require complete documentation of the transformation chain, from the field to the production batch. For vegetable oils, this means tracking from the agricultural plot to the first pressing or extraction.
Building a routine around a selection of organic and natural cosmetics therefore requires checking that each product meets these updated requirements, not the old versions of the frameworks.
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- Check the version of the framework mentioned on the packaging or product sheet (certifications prior to 2023 follow less strict criteria)
- Prefer brands that publish the complete list of their raw material suppliers, not just the INCI list
- Distinguish the mention “in the process of certification” (which has no regulatory value) from the actual certification issued by an accredited body
Biodegradability of Rinsed Cosmetics: A Criterion Absent from Classic Routines
The biodegradability of surfactants is the blind spot of most organic beauty guides. An organic-certified facial cleansing gel that uses poorly biodegradable surfactants ends up in wastewater and impacts aquatic environments. Research reported by the European Environment Agency and Cosmetics Europe between 2022 and 2024 documents this impact on freshwater ecosystems.
Labels like “easily biodegradable formula” appear on some packaging. They are not regulated by a single label, making interpretation difficult. We recommend looking for the testing standard used (often indicated in small print) rather than relying solely on the marketing claim.
For a coherent ethical routine, rinsed products (facial cleanser, shampoo, shower gel) deserve as much attention as serum or day cream. An unrinsed organic product pollutes little, while a poorly formulated rinsed product pollutes with each use.
Waterless Cosmetics: Reducing the Footprint from Formulation
The “waterless beauty” trend has gained notable momentum since 2021. Waterless products (cleansing powders, solid shampoos, concentrated serums in oil form) eliminate the first ingredient from conventional formulas. Water often represents the majority of the composition of a classic cream or gel.
Removing water has direct technical consequences. Without an aqueous phase, conventional preservatives (even those allowed in organic) become unnecessary. The stability of the product then relies on the intrinsic quality of the oils and concentrated actives. Less water in the formula also means less transportation, as the product is lighter and more compact.
In daily routines, a powder cleanser activated with tap water replaces a 200 ml gel bottle. A multifunctional solid balm can cover the hydration of the face and lips. This type of product requires an adjustment period, particularly for dosing, but reduces the total number of cosmetics in the bathroom.
Limitations to Know About Anhydrous Formulas
Waterless textures are not suitable for all skin types. Very dry skin may need an emulsion (water/oil mixture) to restore the skin barrier. Anhydrous formulas also concentrate actives, which increases the risk of reactions on sensitive or reactive skin.
Reading an INCI Label Beyond Green Marketing
The position of an ingredient in the INCI list indicates its relative concentration. Components are listed in descending order until a concentration of 1%, then in a free order below this threshold. A plant active prominently touted on the packaging but listed at the end of the nomenclature is present in trace amounts.
Three technical reflexes to evaluate an organic product:
- Count the number of ingredients: a short formula (fewer than fifteen components) is often easier to trace and evaluate than a thirty-line list
- Spot the Latin names in italics, which denote unprocessed plant extracts, as opposed to the English chemical names that indicate industrial transformation
- Identify the presence of synthetic fragrance (“fragrance” or “parfum”) even in a certified organic product, as some frameworks allow a minor share of non-natural components
Greenwashing is not limited to conventional brands. Lines labeled “natural” use vague claims (“based on”, “inspired by nature”) without any certification behind them. The label remains the only verifiable safeguard for consumers.
Reducing the number of products in one’s routine produces measurable effects on the presence of pollutants in the body, sometimes in just a few days. This data, documented by recent scientific studies, reinforces the interest in a minimalist approach. Three to five well-chosen products, certified according to updated frameworks, cover the needs of a complete facial routine without multiplying exposure risks.